Sunday, 15 April 2007

The Walk Itself: 13th April 2007: Day 4½

Cramming our holidays brim-full, we had various commitments to meet in between Day 4 and Day 4½ (not least the Wainwrights - http://blogwalkers-wainwrights.blogspot.com and the preparations for the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge - http://blogwalkers-yorkshirethreepeaks.blogspot.com). Nonetheless, we were fully recovered when we returned to Carlisle for the final stint.

Starting where we'd left the path at Eden Bridge at lunchtime, we continued our trek Westwards. As at Newcastle, where the trail passes through a city it passes through some less pleasant areas, but out of Carlisle and along the river Eden was very nice walking. Again, the sun was out for us:




Despite the previous day's trip up Scafell Pike, our legs were much fresher and we kept a steady 3 mph. Departing from the Eden, the path passes through some lovely villages - Grinsdale, Beaumont and Burgh-by-Sands.

Burgh (pronounced "Bruff") bears mention for keeping us hungry... We'd failed to bring a lunch, confident of finding something on the way, but by Burgh there had been nothing and our stomachs were sorrowed to see the Greyhound Inn closed and the Post Office (marked on the Harvey map) non-existant or impossibly hidden.

We drew lots to see whose arm would be first for the pot, but fate stepped in to help us as we toiled along the arrow-straight road from Burgh to Drumburgh:



Two small boys leapt from a disused shack and offered to sell us crisps. We restrained ourselves from being unreasonable (what, no sandwiches?), made the purchase and headed on. As far as the self-service canteen at Grange Farm where we supplemented the crisps with cake, ice-cream and chocolate. Day 4½ was not shaping up to be a healthy day.

After Drumburgh the miles fell away under enthusiastic feet and at each successive village we were pleasantly surprised at the time we'd taken. Glasson was pleasant but we resisted the draw of the Highland Laddie and marched on to Port Carlisle where we were badly bored by a well-meaning local. But we didn't mind as the views along the Solway coast were spectacular:



The finish post of Bowness-in-Solway came into sight as the sun began to set:



- and we ended our walk across the country in the lovely village of Bowness. Here they do mark the end of the trail - with a nice surprise which you will find out for yourself.

Finally, dinner in the homely King's Arms with the Fellrunner who came to retrieve us. Good food and Jenning's ale, and somehow the landlord guessed we were Hadrian's Wallers and gave us certificates without us even asking...
Distance: 15 miles on Day 4½ and 86 in total.

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